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Common orange lichen, 2.5:1 stack, Heesch In my previous post...<br />
<figure class="photo"><a href="https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92686/common_orange_lichen_2.51_heesch.html" title="Common orange lichen, 2.5:1, Heesch"><img src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/media.jungledragon.com/images/2/92686_thumb.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=05GMT0V3GWVNE7GGM1R2&Expires=1759968010&Signature=N3yeG9RjSi%2FRT4a4UqLPLAiS5d0%3D" width="102" height="152" alt="Common orange lichen, 2.5:1, Heesch This photo isn&#039;t particularly spectacular, yet it marks the start of a new personal journey, my first steps beyond 1:1 macro photography.<br />
<br />
A journey I didn&#039;t plan. I&#039;m happy with 1:1 macro photography and had no unmet need. In fact, on live subjects I often cannot use the closest focusing distance of my 1:1 macro lens, which technically means it&#039;s not even macro. I&#039;m fine with that, it&#039;s just a word, I care about the subject and its meaning much more.<br />
<br />
Yet somehow I found myself suddenly owning the Laowa Venus 25mm f/2.8 2.5-5x Ultra-Macro lens. I made the impulse buy after a cool video about it by Thomas Shahan, whom enjoyed it very much. As it is relatively inexpensive, I pulled the trigger. As just a lens to play with, probably mostly indoors.<br />
<br />
This one spontaneous action led to a gear catastrophe. Whilst in extremely favorable conditions one can still use 2.5x macro without much else, at 5x macro, everything changes. You need a macro rail, strong lights, specimen holders, special software, the list goes on.<br />
<br />
As macro beyond 1:1 is not very common, I plan to add more &quot;making of&quot; info below such photos. Just so you can get an idea of what it&#039;s like.<br />
<br />
To start with this first photo, it&#039;s a 2.5:1 macro, the smallest magnification this lens offers. You&#039;ll only get anything in focus at a 45mm focusing distance. You can&#039;t take more distance and have a smaller view (which is possible with my 1:1 macro lens). 45mm is of course extremely close to the subject, at danger of the lens blocking light. It&#039;s also difficult to add light, as the distance between the lens and subject is so short.<br />
<br />
This lens has manual aperture control, yet aperture works completely different than usual at higher magnifications. The *effective* aperture is a result of this formula:<br />
<br />
(magnification + 1) * aperture<br />
<br />
For this photo, taken at f/2.8, this would be (2.5 + 1) * 2.8 = f/9.8.<br />
<br />
At 2.5:1 and f/2.8, the depth of field (DOF) is as thin as almost not existing. So let&#039;s stop down (raise f number) to f/8 to get some more depth of field:<br />
<br />
(2.5 + 1) * 8 = f/28<br />
<br />
f/28 is really problematic. It creates light diffraction, strongly affecting image quality. What&#039;s worse, f/28 means almost no light. It&#039;s looking into a pitch black viewfinder in broad daylight. And this is just the beginning, let&#039;s use this lens&#039; maximum magnification of 5:1:<br />
<br />
(5 + 1) * 8 = f/48<br />
<br />
f/48 is absurd. It requires insane amounts of light just to see anything in the view finder.<br />
<br />
If the above is too confusing, the real-world consequence of this lens and its qualities are that even in the best of conditions (f/2.8, 2.5:1), this lens is extremely difficult to use handheld or in the field. You&#039;d need a really tiny subject (&lt; 1mm), great flash, lots of practise, and a subject that tolerates this tiny working distance.<br />
<br />
In any other circumstance (bigger subject, bigger magnification) this lens can basically only be used by stacking many shots, and combining them. Much more on that later.<br />
<br />
This first photo is a lateral view taken from a tripod at 2.5:1, depth of field is around 0.1mm. It&#039;s basically one of my early tests. <br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92738/common_orange_lichen_2.51_stack_heesch.html Common orange lichen,Europe,Extreme Macro,Heesch,Netherlands,World,Xanthoria parietina" /></a></figure><br />
...I introduced my new 2.5 - 5x macro lens and some of the big challenges in working with it. The previous photo showed a very tiny depth of field at about 0.1mm. To cover (much) more depth, stacking is a requirement.<br />
<br />
So to make a long story short, I invested in stacking gear. Specifically, the WeMacro automated rail. This is a machine on which you put your camera, and then it moves it forward or backward automatically, by steps as small as 1 micron (0.001 mm). The rail includes a shutter cable which goes into the camera. Next, you can control the rail in a number of ways, using a mobile app, a Windows app, or the way I&#039;m using it, using the Helicon Remote software.<br />
<br />
As a summary of how this works: on my computer monitor, I&#039;m directly looking at the live feed of the camera. Parts in focus are marked blue. I can press forward/backward to move the rail slightly, until I find the start of the stack. Next, I move the rail backwards until I find the point that I want to be the end of the stack. <br />
<br />
Finally, I input the amount of steps/photos to take between these points, and press start. The entire process of taking the photos and moving the rail is fully automated. I typically leave the room and let it run, also to avoid vibrations.<br />
<br />
If you&#039;re on Facebook, this video shows the setup in action:<br />
<a href="https://www.facebook.com/ferdy.christant/videos/10158019291547692/" rel="nofollow">https://www.facebook.com/ferdy.christant/videos/10158019291547692/</a><br />
<br />
The end result will be a few dozen images taken, which are then loaded into another program, Helicon Focus. Here you can blend the photos into a single image.<br />
<br />
Stacking is tedious and painful, even with this machine, although it does take away the biggest time sink. The big upside is something macro photographers are not used to: depth of field no longer matters. If you want more, just add more steps to the stack. <br />
<br />
Likewise, normally with 1:1 macro you would try to align with the subject, to maximize depth of field. With stacking, this is not necessary. You can take an odd diagonal angle and get full depth of field across the scene. So you have to basically unlearn some constraints of non-stack macro photography.<br />
<br />
And finally, another cool implication of deep stacking is that you can generate multiple images from the same stack. In this example, I did a full start to end stack, everything is in focus in the combined image. However, if I keep the individual stack images, I can now also produce an entirely new image that would only cover the first half of the depth of field, should I like that result better.<br />
<br />
3.5:1 macro:<br />
<br />
<figure class="photo"><a href="https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92743/common_orange_lichen_3.51_stack_heesch.html" title="Common orange lichen, 3.5:1 stack, Heesch"><img src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/media.jungledragon.com/images/2/92743_thumb.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=05GMT0V3GWVNE7GGM1R2&Expires=1759968010&Signature=xYgL5KZxMpjhfUzU8T3cwLVIC4w%3D" width="200" height="134" alt="Common orange lichen, 3.5:1 stack, Heesch A 3.5x macro stack of a Common orange lichen.<br />
<br />
From this magnification and onwards, vibration is a real issue. Even when you sit absolutely still, the scene will vibrate. It could be because of a distant passing car, the laundry machine in the next room, anything. <br />
<br />
This problem in particular manifests itself when using continuous light for stacking. Even a very strong continuous LED light pointing directly at this subject, almost touching it, still gives only a relatively slow 1/50s shutter speed, which is too slow to avoid vibration. <br />
<br />
One solution is to add even more continuous lights or more powerful ones. A better solution is flash, which has its own problems that I&#039;ll discuss in another post.<br />
<br />
I also like to add an important creative lesson. The maximum magnification of a topic isn&#039;t always the best or most interesting. For example, from this series of this species, I like this one best:<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92738/common_orange_lichen_2.51_stack_heesch.html<br />
Things don&#039;t always look better or more interesting when magnifying further, it really depends on the topic. Furthermore, the biggest magnification also has the biggest problems, the process is extra difficult and the result not as sharp. <br />
<br />
For this reason, I also sometimes use my 1:1 macro lens for stacking. It&#039;s optically a superior lens and still has a decent magnification. As I go beyond these first steps that are highly technical, my focus should be on meaning, not magnification for magnification sake. Common orange lichen,Extreme Macro,WeRail,Xanthoria parietina" /></a></figure><br />
5:1 macro:<br />
<br />
<figure class="photo"><a href="https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92741/common_orange_lichen_51_stack_heesch.html" title="Common orange lichen, 5:1 stack, Heesch"><img src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/media.jungledragon.com/images/2/92741_thumb.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=05GMT0V3GWVNE7GGM1R2&Expires=1759968010&Signature=bsGxqFGnH%2BOYEbW8Bh%2BYlj9m6FE%3D" width="200" height="134" alt="Common orange lichen, 5:1 stack, Heesch This is a stack at 5x macro of the Common orange lichen. A few &quot;making of&quot; notes:<br />
<br />
From this magnification and onwards, things start to look really dirty and messy. Dust, particles, threads everywhere. Depending on the subject, some people prepare their specimens for this reason. The thing I like about this shot is that you can start to see the algae (green), part of the lichen.<br />
<br />
The stack is reasonable but does have beginner issues, in particular a few halo effects that are a common result of stacking. It primarily happens due to 2 reasons: the step length was too small (not in this case), or the software fails to accurately detect sharp/soft edges. Its hard or even impossible to avoid halos altogether, but in the meanwhile I&#039;ve already learned a few things to minimize them.<br />
<br />
Finally, a note on sharpness. I usually post my photos in very high resolution. If I didn&#039;t crop the photo, it&#039;s over 8000 pixels wide. If the shot was decent, you can zoom pretty deeply to inspect additional details in the image. I most certainly can&#039;t produce that at 5x macro, zooming digitally into a high res photos basically means you&#039;re at 10:1 (combined). At that level, there&#039;s way too many optical/movement/noise issues. <br />
<br />
In other words, for these types of images, what you&#039;re looking at is the usable detail. Zooming deeply into the image won&#039;t make you very happy. Common orange lichen,Extreme Macro,Xanthoria parietina" /></a></figure> Common orange lichen,Europe,Extreme Macro,Heesch,Netherlands,World,Xanthoria parietina Click/tap to enlarge

Common orange lichen, 2.5:1 stack, Heesch

In my previous post...

Common orange lichen, 2.5:1, Heesch This photo isn't particularly spectacular, yet it marks the start of a new personal journey, my first steps beyond 1:1 macro photography.<br />
<br />
A journey I didn't plan. I'm happy with 1:1 macro photography and had no unmet need. In fact, on live subjects I often cannot use the closest focusing distance of my 1:1 macro lens, which technically means it's not even macro. I'm fine with that, it's just a word, I care about the subject and its meaning much more.<br />
<br />
Yet somehow I found myself suddenly owning the Laowa Venus 25mm f/2.8 2.5-5x Ultra-Macro lens. I made the impulse buy after a cool video about it by Thomas Shahan, whom enjoyed it very much. As it is relatively inexpensive, I pulled the trigger. As just a lens to play with, probably mostly indoors.<br />
<br />
This one spontaneous action led to a gear catastrophe. Whilst in extremely favorable conditions one can still use 2.5x macro without much else, at 5x macro, everything changes. You need a macro rail, strong lights, specimen holders, special software, the list goes on.<br />
<br />
As macro beyond 1:1 is not very common, I plan to add more "making of" info below such photos. Just so you can get an idea of what it's like.<br />
<br />
To start with this first photo, it's a 2.5:1 macro, the smallest magnification this lens offers. You'll only get anything in focus at a 45mm focusing distance. You can't take more distance and have a smaller view (which is possible with my 1:1 macro lens). 45mm is of course extremely close to the subject, at danger of the lens blocking light. It's also difficult to add light, as the distance between the lens and subject is so short.<br />
<br />
This lens has manual aperture control, yet aperture works completely different than usual at higher magnifications. The *effective* aperture is a result of this formula:<br />
<br />
(magnification + 1) * aperture<br />
<br />
For this photo, taken at f/2.8, this would be (2.5 + 1) * 2.8 = f/9.8.<br />
<br />
At 2.5:1 and f/2.8, the depth of field (DOF) is as thin as almost not existing. So let's stop down (raise f number) to f/8 to get some more depth of field:<br />
<br />
(2.5 + 1) * 8 = f/28<br />
<br />
f/28 is really problematic. It creates light diffraction, strongly affecting image quality. What's worse, f/28 means almost no light. It's looking into a pitch black viewfinder in broad daylight. And this is just the beginning, let's use this lens' maximum magnification of 5:1:<br />
<br />
(5 + 1) * 8 = f/48<br />
<br />
f/48 is absurd. It requires insane amounts of light just to see anything in the view finder.<br />
<br />
If the above is too confusing, the real-world consequence of this lens and its qualities are that even in the best of conditions (f/2.8, 2.5:1), this lens is extremely difficult to use handheld or in the field. You'd need a really tiny subject (< 1mm), great flash, lots of practise, and a subject that tolerates this tiny working distance.<br />
<br />
In any other circumstance (bigger subject, bigger magnification) this lens can basically only be used by stacking many shots, and combining them. Much more on that later.<br />
<br />
This first photo is a lateral view taken from a tripod at 2.5:1, depth of field is around 0.1mm. It's basically one of my early tests. <br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92738/common_orange_lichen_2.51_stack_heesch.html Common orange lichen,Europe,Extreme Macro,Heesch,Netherlands,World,Xanthoria parietina

...I introduced my new 2.5 - 5x macro lens and some of the big challenges in working with it. The previous photo showed a very tiny depth of field at about 0.1mm. To cover (much) more depth, stacking is a requirement.

So to make a long story short, I invested in stacking gear. Specifically, the WeMacro automated rail. This is a machine on which you put your camera, and then it moves it forward or backward automatically, by steps as small as 1 micron (0.001 mm). The rail includes a shutter cable which goes into the camera. Next, you can control the rail in a number of ways, using a mobile app, a Windows app, or the way I'm using it, using the Helicon Remote software.

As a summary of how this works: on my computer monitor, I'm directly looking at the live feed of the camera. Parts in focus are marked blue. I can press forward/backward to move the rail slightly, until I find the start of the stack. Next, I move the rail backwards until I find the point that I want to be the end of the stack.

Finally, I input the amount of steps/photos to take between these points, and press start. The entire process of taking the photos and moving the rail is fully automated. I typically leave the room and let it run, also to avoid vibrations.

If you're on Facebook, this video shows the setup in action:
https://www.facebook.com/ferdy.christant/videos/10158019291547692/

The end result will be a few dozen images taken, which are then loaded into another program, Helicon Focus. Here you can blend the photos into a single image.

Stacking is tedious and painful, even with this machine, although it does take away the biggest time sink. The big upside is something macro photographers are not used to: depth of field no longer matters. If you want more, just add more steps to the stack.

Likewise, normally with 1:1 macro you would try to align with the subject, to maximize depth of field. With stacking, this is not necessary. You can take an odd diagonal angle and get full depth of field across the scene. So you have to basically unlearn some constraints of non-stack macro photography.

And finally, another cool implication of deep stacking is that you can generate multiple images from the same stack. In this example, I did a full start to end stack, everything is in focus in the combined image. However, if I keep the individual stack images, I can now also produce an entirely new image that would only cover the first half of the depth of field, should I like that result better.

3.5:1 macro:

Common orange lichen, 3.5:1 stack, Heesch A 3.5x macro stack of a Common orange lichen.<br />
<br />
From this magnification and onwards, vibration is a real issue. Even when you sit absolutely still, the scene will vibrate. It could be because of a distant passing car, the laundry machine in the next room, anything. <br />
<br />
This problem in particular manifests itself when using continuous light for stacking. Even a very strong continuous LED light pointing directly at this subject, almost touching it, still gives only a relatively slow 1/50s shutter speed, which is too slow to avoid vibration. <br />
<br />
One solution is to add even more continuous lights or more powerful ones. A better solution is flash, which has its own problems that I'll discuss in another post.<br />
<br />
I also like to add an important creative lesson. The maximum magnification of a topic isn't always the best or most interesting. For example, from this series of this species, I like this one best:<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92738/common_orange_lichen_2.51_stack_heesch.html<br />
Things don't always look better or more interesting when magnifying further, it really depends on the topic. Furthermore, the biggest magnification also has the biggest problems, the process is extra difficult and the result not as sharp. <br />
<br />
For this reason, I also sometimes use my 1:1 macro lens for stacking. It's optically a superior lens and still has a decent magnification. As I go beyond these first steps that are highly technical, my focus should be on meaning, not magnification for magnification sake. Common orange lichen,Extreme Macro,WeRail,Xanthoria parietina

5:1 macro:

Common orange lichen, 5:1 stack, Heesch This is a stack at 5x macro of the Common orange lichen. A few "making of" notes:<br />
<br />
From this magnification and onwards, things start to look really dirty and messy. Dust, particles, threads everywhere. Depending on the subject, some people prepare their specimens for this reason. The thing I like about this shot is that you can start to see the algae (green), part of the lichen.<br />
<br />
The stack is reasonable but does have beginner issues, in particular a few halo effects that are a common result of stacking. It primarily happens due to 2 reasons: the step length was too small (not in this case), or the software fails to accurately detect sharp/soft edges. Its hard or even impossible to avoid halos altogether, but in the meanwhile I've already learned a few things to minimize them.<br />
<br />
Finally, a note on sharpness. I usually post my photos in very high resolution. If I didn't crop the photo, it's over 8000 pixels wide. If the shot was decent, you can zoom pretty deeply to inspect additional details in the image. I most certainly can't produce that at 5x macro, zooming digitally into a high res photos basically means you're at 10:1 (combined). At that level, there's way too many optical/movement/noise issues. <br />
<br />
In other words, for these types of images, what you're looking at is the usable detail. Zooming deeply into the image won't make you very happy. Common orange lichen,Extreme Macro,Xanthoria parietina

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Xanthoria parietina is a foliose, or leafy, lichen. It has wide distribution, and many common names such as common orange lichen, yellow scale, maritime sunburst lichen and shore lichen. It can be found near the shore on rocks or walls (hence the epithet parietina meaning "on walls"), and also on inland rocks, walls, or tree bark.

Similar species: Teloschistales
Species identified by Ferdy Christant
View Ferdy Christant's profile

By Ferdy Christant

All rights reserved
Uploaded Apr 18, 2020. Captured Feb 22, 2020 19:04.
  • NIKON D850
  • f/1.2
  • 1/60s
  • ISO64
  • 50mm