JungleDragon is a nature and wildlife community for photographers, travellers and anyone who loves nature. We're genuine, free, ad-free and beautiful.

Join

Common orange lichen, 3.5:1 stack, Heesch A 3.5x macro stack of a Common orange lichen.<br />
<br />
From this magnification and onwards, vibration is a real issue. Even when you sit absolutely still, the scene will vibrate. It could be because of a distant passing car, the laundry machine in the next room, anything. <br />
<br />
This problem in particular manifests itself when using continuous light for stacking. Even a very strong continuous LED light pointing directly at this subject, almost touching it, still gives only a relatively slow 1/50s shutter speed, which is too slow to avoid vibration. <br />
<br />
One solution is to add even more continuous lights or more powerful ones. A better solution is flash, which has its own problems that I&#039;ll discuss in another post.<br />
<br />
I also like to add an important creative lesson. The maximum magnification of a topic isn&#039;t always the best or most interesting. For example, from this series of this species, I like this one best:<br />
<figure class="photo"><a href="https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92738/common_orange_lichen_2.51_stack_heesch.html" title="Common orange lichen, 2.5:1 stack, Heesch"><img src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/media.jungledragon.com/images/2/92738_thumb.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=05GMT0V3GWVNE7GGM1R2&Expires=1759968010&Signature=ex%2Bgbd3mEVee2xE8E4ZHBSQt5hY%3D" width="200" height="134" alt="Common orange lichen, 2.5:1 stack, Heesch In my previous post...<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92686/common_orange_lichen_2.51_heesch.html<br />
...I introduced my new 2.5 - 5x macro lens and some of the big challenges in working with it. The previous photo showed a very tiny depth of field at about 0.1mm. To cover (much) more depth, stacking is a requirement.<br />
<br />
So to make a long story short, I invested in stacking gear. Specifically, the WeMacro automated rail. This is a machine on which you put your camera, and then it moves it forward or backward automatically, by steps as small as 1 micron (0.001 mm). The rail includes a shutter cable which goes into the camera. Next, you can control the rail in a number of ways, using a mobile app, a Windows app, or the way I&#039;m using it, using the Helicon Remote software.<br />
<br />
As a summary of how this works: on my computer monitor, I&#039;m directly looking at the live feed of the camera. Parts in focus are marked blue. I can press forward/backward to move the rail slightly, until I find the start of the stack. Next, I move the rail backwards until I find the point that I want to be the end of the stack. <br />
<br />
Finally, I input the amount of steps/photos to take between these points, and press start. The entire process of taking the photos and moving the rail is fully automated. I typically leave the room and let it run, also to avoid vibrations.<br />
<br />
If you&#039;re on Facebook, this video shows the setup in action:<br />
https://www.facebook.com/ferdy.christant/videos/10158019291547692/<br />
<br />
The end result will be a few dozen images taken, which are then loaded into another program, Helicon Focus. Here you can blend the photos into a single image.<br />
<br />
Stacking is tedious and painful, even with this machine, although it does take away the biggest time sink. The big upside is something macro photographers are not used to: depth of field no longer matters. If you want more, just add more steps to the stack. <br />
<br />
Likewise, normally with 1:1 macro you would try to align with the subject, to maximize depth of field. With stacking, this is not necessary. You can take an odd diagonal angle and get full depth of field across the scene. So you have to basically unlearn some constraints of non-stack macro photography.<br />
<br />
And finally, another cool implication of deep stacking is that you can generate multiple images from the same stack. In this example, I did a full start to end stack, everything is in focus in the combined image. However, if I keep the individual stack images, I can now also produce an entirely new image that would only cover the first half of the depth of field, should I like that result better.<br />
<br />
3.5:1 macro:<br />
<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92743/common_orange_lichen_3.51_stack_heesch.html<br />
5:1 macro:<br />
<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92741/common_orange_lichen_51_stack_heesch.html Common orange lichen,Europe,Extreme Macro,Heesch,Netherlands,World,Xanthoria parietina" /></a></figure><br />
Things don&#039;t always look better or more interesting when magnifying further, it really depends on the topic. Furthermore, the biggest magnification also has the biggest problems, the process is extra difficult and the result not as sharp. <br />
<br />
For this reason, I also sometimes use my 1:1 macro lens for stacking. It&#039;s optically a superior lens and still has a decent magnification. As I go beyond these first steps that are highly technical, my focus should be on meaning, not magnification for magnification sake. Common orange lichen,Extreme Macro,WeRail,Xanthoria parietina Click/tap to enlarge

Common orange lichen, 3.5:1 stack, Heesch

A 3.5x macro stack of a Common orange lichen.

From this magnification and onwards, vibration is a real issue. Even when you sit absolutely still, the scene will vibrate. It could be because of a distant passing car, the laundry machine in the next room, anything.

This problem in particular manifests itself when using continuous light for stacking. Even a very strong continuous LED light pointing directly at this subject, almost touching it, still gives only a relatively slow 1/50s shutter speed, which is too slow to avoid vibration.

One solution is to add even more continuous lights or more powerful ones. A better solution is flash, which has its own problems that I'll discuss in another post.

I also like to add an important creative lesson. The maximum magnification of a topic isn't always the best or most interesting. For example, from this series of this species, I like this one best:

Common orange lichen, 2.5:1 stack, Heesch In my previous post...<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92686/common_orange_lichen_2.51_heesch.html<br />
...I introduced my new 2.5 - 5x macro lens and some of the big challenges in working with it. The previous photo showed a very tiny depth of field at about 0.1mm. To cover (much) more depth, stacking is a requirement.<br />
<br />
So to make a long story short, I invested in stacking gear. Specifically, the WeMacro automated rail. This is a machine on which you put your camera, and then it moves it forward or backward automatically, by steps as small as 1 micron (0.001 mm). The rail includes a shutter cable which goes into the camera. Next, you can control the rail in a number of ways, using a mobile app, a Windows app, or the way I'm using it, using the Helicon Remote software.<br />
<br />
As a summary of how this works: on my computer monitor, I'm directly looking at the live feed of the camera. Parts in focus are marked blue. I can press forward/backward to move the rail slightly, until I find the start of the stack. Next, I move the rail backwards until I find the point that I want to be the end of the stack. <br />
<br />
Finally, I input the amount of steps/photos to take between these points, and press start. The entire process of taking the photos and moving the rail is fully automated. I typically leave the room and let it run, also to avoid vibrations.<br />
<br />
If you're on Facebook, this video shows the setup in action:<br />
https://www.facebook.com/ferdy.christant/videos/10158019291547692/<br />
<br />
The end result will be a few dozen images taken, which are then loaded into another program, Helicon Focus. Here you can blend the photos into a single image.<br />
<br />
Stacking is tedious and painful, even with this machine, although it does take away the biggest time sink. The big upside is something macro photographers are not used to: depth of field no longer matters. If you want more, just add more steps to the stack. <br />
<br />
Likewise, normally with 1:1 macro you would try to align with the subject, to maximize depth of field. With stacking, this is not necessary. You can take an odd diagonal angle and get full depth of field across the scene. So you have to basically unlearn some constraints of non-stack macro photography.<br />
<br />
And finally, another cool implication of deep stacking is that you can generate multiple images from the same stack. In this example, I did a full start to end stack, everything is in focus in the combined image. However, if I keep the individual stack images, I can now also produce an entirely new image that would only cover the first half of the depth of field, should I like that result better.<br />
<br />
3.5:1 macro:<br />
<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92743/common_orange_lichen_3.51_stack_heesch.html<br />
5:1 macro:<br />
<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92741/common_orange_lichen_51_stack_heesch.html Common orange lichen,Europe,Extreme Macro,Heesch,Netherlands,World,Xanthoria parietina

Things don't always look better or more interesting when magnifying further, it really depends on the topic. Furthermore, the biggest magnification also has the biggest problems, the process is extra difficult and the result not as sharp.

For this reason, I also sometimes use my 1:1 macro lens for stacking. It's optically a superior lens and still has a decent magnification. As I go beyond these first steps that are highly technical, my focus should be on meaning, not magnification for magnification sake.

Sign in or Join in order to comment.

Xanthoria parietina is a foliose, or leafy, lichen. It has wide distribution, and many common names such as common orange lichen, yellow scale, maritime sunburst lichen and shore lichen. It can be found near the shore on rocks or walls (hence the epithet parietina meaning "on walls"), and also on inland rocks, walls, or tree bark.

Similar species: Teloschistales
Species identified by Ferdy Christant
View Ferdy Christant's profile

By Ferdy Christant

All rights reserved
Uploaded Apr 18, 2020. Captured Mar 6, 2020 21:44.
  • NIKON D850
  • f/1.2
  • 1/50s
  • ISO800
  • 50mm