
Common orange lichen, 2.5:1, Heesch
This photo isn't particularly spectacular, yet it marks the start of a new personal journey, my first steps beyond 1:1 macro photography.
A journey I didn't plan. I'm happy with 1:1 macro photography and had no unmet need. In fact, on live subjects I often cannot use the closest focusing distance of my 1:1 macro lens, which technically means it's not even macro. I'm fine with that, it's just a word, I care about the subject and its meaning much more.
Yet somehow I found myself suddenly owning the Laowa Venus 25mm f/2.8 2.5-5x Ultra-Macro lens. I made the impulse buy after a cool video about it by Thomas Shahan, whom enjoyed it very much. As it is relatively inexpensive, I pulled the trigger. As just a lens to play with, probably mostly indoors.
This one spontaneous action led to a gear catastrophe. Whilst in extremely favorable conditions one can still use 2.5x macro without much else, at 5x macro, everything changes. You need a macro rail, strong lights, specimen holders, special software, the list goes on.
As macro beyond 1:1 is not very common, I plan to add more "making of" info below such photos. Just so you can get an idea of what it's like.
To start with this first photo, it's a 2.5:1 macro, the smallest magnification this lens offers. You'll only get anything in focus at a 45mm focusing distance. You can't take more distance and have a smaller view (which is possible with my 1:1 macro lens). 45mm is of course extremely close to the subject, at danger of the lens blocking light. It's also difficult to add light, as the distance between the lens and subject is so short.
This lens has manual aperture control, yet aperture works completely different than usual at higher magnifications. The *effective* aperture is a result of this formula:
(magnification + 1) * aperture
For this photo, taken at f/2.8, this would be (2.5 + 1) * 2.8 = f/9.8.
At 2.5:1 and f/2.8, the depth of field (DOF) is as thin as almost not existing. So let's stop down (raise f number) to f/8 to get some more depth of field:
(2.5 + 1) * 8 = f/28
f/28 is really problematic. It creates light diffraction, strongly affecting image quality. What's worse, f/28 means almost no light. It's looking into a pitch black viewfinder in broad daylight. And this is just the beginning, let's use this lens' maximum magnification of 5:1:
(5 + 1) * 8 = f/48
f/48 is absurd. It requires insane amounts of light just to see anything in the view finder.
If the above is too confusing, the real-world consequence of this lens and its qualities are that even in the best of conditions (f/2.8, 2.5:1), this lens is extremely difficult to use handheld or in the field. You'd need a really tiny subject (< 1mm), great flash, lots of practise, and a subject that tolerates this tiny working distance.
In any other circumstance (bigger subject, bigger magnification) this lens can basically only be used by stacking many shots, and combining them. Much more on that later.
This first photo is a lateral view taken from a tripod at 2.5:1, depth of field is around 0.1mm. It's basically one of my early tests.

Xanthoria parietina is a foliose, or leafy, lichen. It has wide distribution, and many common names such as common orange lichen, yellow scale, maritime sunburst lichen and shore lichen. It can be found near the shore on rocks or walls (hence the epithet parietina meaning "on walls"), and also on inland rocks, walls, or tree bark.
comments (14)
I really like the ideas you're sharing, as they show a different take other than just max magnifying some head or other predictable subject.
Some topics you mention are out of reach even for 5:1 macro. Showing fine detail on the scales of a butterfly wing requires 10:1 or even 20:1. You can of course still get *some* detail as 5:1. Posted 5 years ago, modified 5 years ago
Posted 5 years ago
- I'd first like somewhat larger sized insects, for example a spider or even something as large as a dragonfly. Purely for the sake of trying to derive high quality details from it that I could not do before.
- Species-wise, and also for JungleDragon's purpose, the tiny insects you mention (mites, springtails, etc) would be most interesting as I simply had no way to photograph them before. But there's a big challenge: I don't have the tools or skills to prepare them. It's very difficult to handle such tiny insects, they are easily damaged and I don't have the precision instruments to do this well. I even struggle with this for a 1cm subject.
- UV. Not often, just sometimes, mostly on plants, and perhaps the occasional bug.
- Everything else, the more static subjects you mention: gills, seeds, etc. These are much easier to handle, so it's something to fall back to. Posted 5 years ago
Also, featherweight forceps are great for handling insects without damaging them: https://www.bioquip.com/html/view_prodpics.asp?CatalogNum=4750&P=2
You can also get one of those small, handheld, gun-shaped, bug vacuums. It sucks bugs into a tiny container without damaging them.
Plus, you can cool insects down in the fridge to slow them down (without killing them). Although, once they warm up, they will start moving again, so this may not give you enough time for properly photographing them. Posted 5 years ago
I think the cooling strategy works for common macro, but indeed not for this. The stack time length is indeed one issue, the other is lighting. It's so strong and hot that it will only speed up the awakening. Posted 5 years ago
So longer term, I'm thinking this will be an occasional thing, and not my dominant style. I still love and perhaps prefer 1:1 macro in the field over this.
Basically, I need to find those subjects where it has actual meaning. And be very selective in it, given the time it takes. Posted 5 years ago