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Common orange lichen, 2.5:1, Heesch This photo isn&#039;t particularly spectacular, yet it marks the start of a new personal journey, my first steps beyond 1:1 macro photography.<br />
<br />
A journey I didn&#039;t plan. I&#039;m happy with 1:1 macro photography and had no unmet need. In fact, on live subjects I often cannot use the closest focusing distance of my 1:1 macro lens, which technically means it&#039;s not even macro. I&#039;m fine with that, it&#039;s just a word, I care about the subject and its meaning much more.<br />
<br />
Yet somehow I found myself suddenly owning the Laowa Venus 25mm f/2.8 2.5-5x Ultra-Macro lens. I made the impulse buy after a cool video about it by Thomas Shahan, whom enjoyed it very much. As it is relatively inexpensive, I pulled the trigger. As just a lens to play with, probably mostly indoors.<br />
<br />
This one spontaneous action led to a gear catastrophe. Whilst in extremely favorable conditions one can still use 2.5x macro without much else, at 5x macro, everything changes. You need a macro rail, strong lights, specimen holders, special software, the list goes on.<br />
<br />
As macro beyond 1:1 is not very common, I plan to add more &quot;making of&quot; info below such photos. Just so you can get an idea of what it&#039;s like.<br />
<br />
To start with this first photo, it&#039;s a 2.5:1 macro, the smallest magnification this lens offers. You&#039;ll only get anything in focus at a 45mm focusing distance. You can&#039;t take more distance and have a smaller view (which is possible with my 1:1 macro lens). 45mm is of course extremely close to the subject, at danger of the lens blocking light. It&#039;s also difficult to add light, as the distance between the lens and subject is so short.<br />
<br />
This lens has manual aperture control, yet aperture works completely different than usual at higher magnifications. The *effective* aperture is a result of this formula:<br />
<br />
(magnification + 1) * aperture<br />
<br />
For this photo, taken at f/2.8, this would be (2.5 + 1) * 2.8 = f/9.8.<br />
<br />
At 2.5:1 and f/2.8, the depth of field (DOF) is as thin as almost not existing. So let&#039;s stop down (raise f number) to f/8 to get some more depth of field:<br />
<br />
(2.5 + 1) * 8 = f/28<br />
<br />
f/28 is really problematic. It creates light diffraction, strongly affecting image quality. What&#039;s worse, f/28 means almost no light. It&#039;s looking into a pitch black viewfinder in broad daylight. And this is just the beginning, let&#039;s use this lens&#039; maximum magnification of 5:1:<br />
<br />
(5 + 1) * 8 = f/48<br />
<br />
f/48 is absurd. It requires insane amounts of light just to see anything in the view finder.<br />
<br />
If the above is too confusing, the real-world consequence of this lens and its qualities are that even in the best of conditions (f/2.8, 2.5:1), this lens is extremely difficult to use handheld or in the field. You&#039;d need a really tiny subject (&lt; 1mm), great flash, lots of practise, and a subject that tolerates this tiny working distance.<br />
<br />
In any other circumstance (bigger subject, bigger magnification) this lens can basically only be used by stacking many shots, and combining them. Much more on that later.<br />
<br />
This first photo is a lateral view taken from a tripod at 2.5:1, depth of field is around 0.1mm. It&#039;s basically one of my early tests. <br />
<figure class="photo"><a href="https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92738/common_orange_lichen_2.51_stack_heesch.html" title="Common orange lichen, 2.5:1 stack, Heesch"><img src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/media.jungledragon.com/images/2/92738_thumb.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=05GMT0V3GWVNE7GGM1R2&Expires=1759968010&Signature=ex%2Bgbd3mEVee2xE8E4ZHBSQt5hY%3D" width="200" height="134" alt="Common orange lichen, 2.5:1 stack, Heesch In my previous post...<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92686/common_orange_lichen_2.51_heesch.html<br />
...I introduced my new 2.5 - 5x macro lens and some of the big challenges in working with it. The previous photo showed a very tiny depth of field at about 0.1mm. To cover (much) more depth, stacking is a requirement.<br />
<br />
So to make a long story short, I invested in stacking gear. Specifically, the WeMacro automated rail. This is a machine on which you put your camera, and then it moves it forward or backward automatically, by steps as small as 1 micron (0.001 mm). The rail includes a shutter cable which goes into the camera. Next, you can control the rail in a number of ways, using a mobile app, a Windows app, or the way I&#039;m using it, using the Helicon Remote software.<br />
<br />
As a summary of how this works: on my computer monitor, I&#039;m directly looking at the live feed of the camera. Parts in focus are marked blue. I can press forward/backward to move the rail slightly, until I find the start of the stack. Next, I move the rail backwards until I find the point that I want to be the end of the stack. <br />
<br />
Finally, I input the amount of steps/photos to take between these points, and press start. The entire process of taking the photos and moving the rail is fully automated. I typically leave the room and let it run, also to avoid vibrations.<br />
<br />
If you&#039;re on Facebook, this video shows the setup in action:<br />
https://www.facebook.com/ferdy.christant/videos/10158019291547692/<br />
<br />
The end result will be a few dozen images taken, which are then loaded into another program, Helicon Focus. Here you can blend the photos into a single image.<br />
<br />
Stacking is tedious and painful, even with this machine, although it does take away the biggest time sink. The big upside is something macro photographers are not used to: depth of field no longer matters. If you want more, just add more steps to the stack. <br />
<br />
Likewise, normally with 1:1 macro you would try to align with the subject, to maximize depth of field. With stacking, this is not necessary. You can take an odd diagonal angle and get full depth of field across the scene. So you have to basically unlearn some constraints of non-stack macro photography.<br />
<br />
And finally, another cool implication of deep stacking is that you can generate multiple images from the same stack. In this example, I did a full start to end stack, everything is in focus in the combined image. However, if I keep the individual stack images, I can now also produce an entirely new image that would only cover the first half of the depth of field, should I like that result better.<br />
<br />
3.5:1 macro:<br />
<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92743/common_orange_lichen_3.51_stack_heesch.html<br />
5:1 macro:<br />
<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92741/common_orange_lichen_51_stack_heesch.html Common orange lichen,Europe,Extreme Macro,Heesch,Netherlands,World,Xanthoria parietina" /></a></figure> Common orange lichen,Europe,Extreme Macro,Heesch,Netherlands,World,Xanthoria parietina Click/tap to enlarge

Common orange lichen, 2.5:1, Heesch

This photo isn't particularly spectacular, yet it marks the start of a new personal journey, my first steps beyond 1:1 macro photography.

A journey I didn't plan. I'm happy with 1:1 macro photography and had no unmet need. In fact, on live subjects I often cannot use the closest focusing distance of my 1:1 macro lens, which technically means it's not even macro. I'm fine with that, it's just a word, I care about the subject and its meaning much more.

Yet somehow I found myself suddenly owning the Laowa Venus 25mm f/2.8 2.5-5x Ultra-Macro lens. I made the impulse buy after a cool video about it by Thomas Shahan, whom enjoyed it very much. As it is relatively inexpensive, I pulled the trigger. As just a lens to play with, probably mostly indoors.

This one spontaneous action led to a gear catastrophe. Whilst in extremely favorable conditions one can still use 2.5x macro without much else, at 5x macro, everything changes. You need a macro rail, strong lights, specimen holders, special software, the list goes on.

As macro beyond 1:1 is not very common, I plan to add more "making of" info below such photos. Just so you can get an idea of what it's like.

To start with this first photo, it's a 2.5:1 macro, the smallest magnification this lens offers. You'll only get anything in focus at a 45mm focusing distance. You can't take more distance and have a smaller view (which is possible with my 1:1 macro lens). 45mm is of course extremely close to the subject, at danger of the lens blocking light. It's also difficult to add light, as the distance between the lens and subject is so short.

This lens has manual aperture control, yet aperture works completely different than usual at higher magnifications. The *effective* aperture is a result of this formula:

(magnification + 1) * aperture

For this photo, taken at f/2.8, this would be (2.5 + 1) * 2.8 = f/9.8.

At 2.5:1 and f/2.8, the depth of field (DOF) is as thin as almost not existing. So let's stop down (raise f number) to f/8 to get some more depth of field:

(2.5 + 1) * 8 = f/28

f/28 is really problematic. It creates light diffraction, strongly affecting image quality. What's worse, f/28 means almost no light. It's looking into a pitch black viewfinder in broad daylight. And this is just the beginning, let's use this lens' maximum magnification of 5:1:

(5 + 1) * 8 = f/48

f/48 is absurd. It requires insane amounts of light just to see anything in the view finder.

If the above is too confusing, the real-world consequence of this lens and its qualities are that even in the best of conditions (f/2.8, 2.5:1), this lens is extremely difficult to use handheld or in the field. You'd need a really tiny subject (< 1mm), great flash, lots of practise, and a subject that tolerates this tiny working distance.

In any other circumstance (bigger subject, bigger magnification) this lens can basically only be used by stacking many shots, and combining them. Much more on that later.

This first photo is a lateral view taken from a tripod at 2.5:1, depth of field is around 0.1mm. It's basically one of my early tests.

Common orange lichen, 2.5:1 stack, Heesch In my previous post...<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92686/common_orange_lichen_2.51_heesch.html<br />
...I introduced my new 2.5 - 5x macro lens and some of the big challenges in working with it. The previous photo showed a very tiny depth of field at about 0.1mm. To cover (much) more depth, stacking is a requirement.<br />
<br />
So to make a long story short, I invested in stacking gear. Specifically, the WeMacro automated rail. This is a machine on which you put your camera, and then it moves it forward or backward automatically, by steps as small as 1 micron (0.001 mm). The rail includes a shutter cable which goes into the camera. Next, you can control the rail in a number of ways, using a mobile app, a Windows app, or the way I'm using it, using the Helicon Remote software.<br />
<br />
As a summary of how this works: on my computer monitor, I'm directly looking at the live feed of the camera. Parts in focus are marked blue. I can press forward/backward to move the rail slightly, until I find the start of the stack. Next, I move the rail backwards until I find the point that I want to be the end of the stack. <br />
<br />
Finally, I input the amount of steps/photos to take between these points, and press start. The entire process of taking the photos and moving the rail is fully automated. I typically leave the room and let it run, also to avoid vibrations.<br />
<br />
If you're on Facebook, this video shows the setup in action:<br />
https://www.facebook.com/ferdy.christant/videos/10158019291547692/<br />
<br />
The end result will be a few dozen images taken, which are then loaded into another program, Helicon Focus. Here you can blend the photos into a single image.<br />
<br />
Stacking is tedious and painful, even with this machine, although it does take away the biggest time sink. The big upside is something macro photographers are not used to: depth of field no longer matters. If you want more, just add more steps to the stack. <br />
<br />
Likewise, normally with 1:1 macro you would try to align with the subject, to maximize depth of field. With stacking, this is not necessary. You can take an odd diagonal angle and get full depth of field across the scene. So you have to basically unlearn some constraints of non-stack macro photography.<br />
<br />
And finally, another cool implication of deep stacking is that you can generate multiple images from the same stack. In this example, I did a full start to end stack, everything is in focus in the combined image. However, if I keep the individual stack images, I can now also produce an entirely new image that would only cover the first half of the depth of field, should I like that result better.<br />
<br />
3.5:1 macro:<br />
<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92743/common_orange_lichen_3.51_stack_heesch.html<br />
5:1 macro:<br />
<br />
https://www.jungledragon.com/image/92741/common_orange_lichen_51_stack_heesch.html Common orange lichen,Europe,Extreme Macro,Heesch,Netherlands,World,Xanthoria parietina

    comments (14)

  1. Really great analysis. You are super patient *and brave* to take this on, but it sounds really promising and I have no doubt that you will get some awesome images. I bet it would get some cool photos of mold or insect eggs. Oh, and moth or butterfly wings too...if you can find some dead ones. Insect eyes too? Or, their reproductive openings (try not to giggle). Insect feet would be a cool subject. Butterfly proboscis (curled up). Pollen on a bee. Flower parts. So many possibilities!!! I'm excited to see your progress :). Posted 5 years ago
    1. Thanks, this is a somewhat boring start, but it should get more interesting soon. There's a lot of potential subjects and it's already changing how I look at things. It's also a nice fallback photography style for the winter.

      I really like the ideas you're sharing, as they show a different take other than just max magnifying some head or other predictable subject.

      Some topics you mention are out of reach even for 5:1 macro. Showing fine detail on the scales of a butterfly wing requires 10:1 or even 20:1. You can of course still get *some* detail as 5:1.
      Posted 5 years ago, modified 5 years ago
      1. Not a boring start at all, I'm excited, haha. There is so much potential and I'm sure you have a list of ideas already, but here are some more...cross-section of plant seeds and berries, fern spores (this would be soooo cool), pinecones, mushroom pores/gills, springtails, mites, ticks, wood grain/bark, slime molds, fruiting moss, dissected flower parts, male mosquito antennae, spider eyes, spinnerets, tardigrades(!!), beehive/honeycomb, fiddleheads, stamens, etc.!

        Posted 5 years ago
        1. Nice list, saving them to my notes :) Posted 5 years ago
          1. What are you most excited to try (out of all your ideas)? Posted 5 years ago
            1. I'm still very much exploring, so have not developed a strong taste yet. Yet I do have some thoughts:

              - I'd first like somewhat larger sized insects, for example a spider or even something as large as a dragonfly. Purely for the sake of trying to derive high quality details from it that I could not do before.

              - Species-wise, and also for JungleDragon's purpose, the tiny insects you mention (mites, springtails, etc) would be most interesting as I simply had no way to photograph them before. But there's a big challenge: I don't have the tools or skills to prepare them. It's very difficult to handle such tiny insects, they are easily damaged and I don't have the precision instruments to do this well. I even struggle with this for a 1cm subject.

              - UV. Not often, just sometimes, mostly on plants, and perhaps the occasional bug.

              - Everything else, the more static subjects you mention: gills, seeds, etc. These are much easier to handle, so it's something to fall back to.
              Posted 5 years ago
              1. Detailed photos of spiders, etc. would be really neat. Do you have ultra fine tip forceps (science quality)? Those are a must for handling tiny critters.

                Also, featherweight forceps are great for handling insects without damaging them: https://www.bioquip.com/html/view_prodpics.asp?CatalogNum=4750&P=2

                You can also get one of those small, handheld, gun-shaped, bug vacuums. It sucks bugs into a tiny container without damaging them.

                Plus, you can cool insects down in the fridge to slow them down (without killing them). Although, once they warm up, they will start moving again, so this may not give you enough time for properly photographing them.
                Posted 5 years ago
                1. Thanks! Saving notes again, to come back to those tool suggestions, very helpful.

                  I think the cooling strategy works for common macro, but indeed not for this. The stack time length is indeed one issue, the other is lighting. It's so strong and hot that it will only speed up the awakening.
                  Posted 5 years ago
                  1. Oh, very good point. Your subjects need to be dead. Posted 5 years ago
                    1. Yes, pretty much. An ideally a fresh dead and intact. Which means being lucky or taking matters into your own hands. Posted 5 years ago
            2. The other thing I wanted to share is that all of this is fantastically fun, and equally painful. With that I mean it's a huge time drain. Last night I did 3 stacks, which took me the entire night. The production value of an entire night of work is 2 photos. Which still have issues.

              So longer term, I'm thinking this will be an occasional thing, and not my dominant style. I still love and perhaps prefer 1:1 macro in the field over this.

              Basically, I need to find those subjects where it has actual meaning. And be very selective in it, given the time it takes.
              Posted 5 years ago
              1. I would feel the same way. In my opinion, you get massive patience points just for trying/doing it occasionally. I'm not sure I would have the temperament for it. Posted 5 years ago
                1. Once I get a little ahead on the curve, I'm going to write a huge article on it that is so discouraging that others won't make my mistake ;) Posted 5 years ago
                  1. Ohhh, I can't wait to read it. Posted 5 years ago

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Xanthoria parietina is a foliose, or leafy, lichen. It has wide distribution, and many common names such as common orange lichen, yellow scale, maritime sunburst lichen and shore lichen. It can be found near the shore on rocks or walls (hence the epithet parietina meaning "on walls"), and also on inland rocks, walls, or tree bark.

Similar species: Teloschistales
Species identified by Ferdy Christant
View Ferdy Christant's profile

By Ferdy Christant

All rights reserved
Uploaded Apr 17, 2020. Captured Feb 22, 2020 18:35.
  • NIKON D850
  • f/1.2
  • 1/60s
  • ISO64
  • 50mm